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Posts tagged ‘travel’

Nov 4

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What do Europeans think of the Greeks now?

It almost doesn’t seem possible that the fate of Europe’s, and potentially the World’s, financial future may be riding on the Greek economy.  Like many, I’ve been watching the recent news coverage eagerly hoping restraint and austerity combined with German generosity would lead to a reasonable resolution of the EU economic instability.  With the news of a potential Greek vote on the loan offer (and its subsequent dismissal), I was wondering if an anxious Europe had had just about enough of Greece.  What do other Europeans, bound by a collective economic and political system but different cultures, think of the nation that clearly seems most incapable of pulling its own weight?  While I don’t think I know the answer, I saw a little bit of personal opinions surface while in Greece.

In September, we had dinner at a small restaurant in Kardamyli along the Southwest coast of Greece.  One of three couples there, we were essentially dining on the front deck of our Head Chef/Head Waiter Gregory’s home.  He was incredibly hospitable and entertaining making jokes the whole time.  The food was of course amazing – I have been craving zucchini fritters ever since that meal!  In chatting with Gregory after dinner, we learned that he had been a school teacher in Athens who retired a few years ago at 50 and moved home to start a restaurant.  With his government pension, he was now halfway through building this home/restaurant and was enjoying following his dream on the rural coast of Greece.

After we were all served courses of amazing food and pitchers of wine, the British couple was the first to finish and head out.  As they were presented the bill, Gregory announced that they owed 40,000,000 Euro.  They laughed and handed over 45 Euros promising to be back the next night.  The Belgian couple finished next and was given their bill for 35,000,000 Euro.  They were not nearly as amused by Gregory’s joke.

“Didn’t we already give you people 35 million Euro?” the man responded.  Unphased, Gregory reiterated how good the food was, how lovely the sunset had been and how perfect this evening beach air was for strolling.  “Surely this evening is worth 35million?” he quipped back, not dropping the joke’s pretense.

“No,” the diner replied.  “It is not nearly worth that much.”  Leaving 35 Euros for dinner, the Belgian couple departed.

Oct 31

Bolshoi Theater Reopens

The Bolshoi Theater in Moscow, the historic center of Russian ballet, reopened Oct 28th after undergoing 6 years of renovation.  A gala performance was held to celebrate the occasion which included an entirely Russian program with Russian performers.  The honored guests of the evening included President Dmitri Medvedev.

In total, $700 million was spent to meticulously restore the historic theater.  As a result of the renovation, the artists’ dressing space has been increased,  the acoustics have been fine-tuned and improved technology has been incorporated into the theater mechanics.  At the same time, original art and architectural elements ranging from stucco work to door handles have been restored to their original 19th-century appearance having been removed in Communist era revisions.  Below are images from the reopening while more images of the renovations can be found on the Theater’s website.

Russia is a trip I hope to take some day – starting in Moscow and working my way through the countryside to St. Petersburg. Capping off my perfect day in Moscow, with any luck, will be a performance at the Bolshoi.  There is something so appealing about the great European opera houses. Aside from the elegant styling of the interior art, the opulent surroundings hearken back to an age where being seen at the theater was a quintessential social event.  Performances are also guaranteed to feature world-class talent.  Where else, for instance, would you go to see the best ballet in the world other than the Bolshoi?  Thankfully the Theater has been fully restored and can resume performances in its traditional home.

Exterior of the Bolshoi Theater illuminated for its reopening gala Oct 28, 2011 (Photo: AP/Alexander Zemlianichenko)

Russian President Dmitry Medvedev (L) and his wife Svetlana (R) applaud the reopening ceremony of Bolshoi Theater in Moscow, Russia (Photo: EPA / Vladimir Rodionov / Ria Novosti / Kremlin Pool)

Bolshoi Theater seating (Photo: EPA / Maxim Shipenkov)

Theater foyer during the reopening gala (Photo: Reuters/Anton Golubev)

Oct 14

Greek Strikes Affect Archaeological Sites

Archaeological sites in Athens are closed due to a 48hr Cultural Ministry strike (Photo: Petros Giannakouris / AP)

Strikes have returned to Athens.  To protest upcoming austerity measures, the municipal workers including metro employees and trash collectors are on a 48hr strike (Oct 13-14).  This time however, the Cultural Ministry has joined the strike causing the shut-down of major tourist attractions in Athens.

Athens metro on 48-hour strike in protest of coming austerity measures (Photo: Thanassis Stavrakis / AP)

While in Greece in early September, I only encountered a metro strike the day we arrived which meant we took a taxi ride into Athens – not a huge burden.  But air traffic controller strikes and the shut-down of essential tourist locations will make travel to Greece very inconvenient for visitors.

My sense of the Greek economy is that these cut-backs are essential and are long due.  I hope these issues can be resolved and the measures adopted without continued social unrest.

Oct 3

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Tips for Visiting Delphi, Greece

Delphi was really amazing and should be a priority on any visit to Greece.  A little bit of advice can usually go a long way, so here are some tips to make sure you enjoy your visit.

1) The Delphi Museum Hours Are Variable

Cybele (left) rides a chariot pulled by a lion who is attacking a Giant, from the north frieze (Gigantomachy) of the Siphnian Treasury, on display in the Delphi Museum

I was warned (by a man in Athens no less) that the Delphi museum had odd hours.  This was strangely confirmed when the three recent guidebooks I consulted all listed different hours for the museum.  Once in Greece, I called ahead and found that the museum was closing at 3pm the day we wanted to go.  We had lunch on the run in Thermopylae and made it to Delphi with a hour for the museum.  Since the archaeological site itself is open from ~8am-8pm everyday, we saw bus loads of tourists dropped off just to look at the ruins because the museum was long closed.  I’d have felt a little cheated if I came all that way and didn’t get to see the famous Charioteer statue, the architectural decorations and votive objects in the museum!

2) Pace Yourself

Delphi is a lot bigger than you think it is and built on a steep hill.  If you really want to see most of the site and enjoy the staggering vistas, budget 4 hours at least to see Delphi.  I suppose you could run through it quickly and just see some parts but you wouldn’t have time to start mentally piecing all the ruins together.  It’s hard to approach a large archaeological like Delphi, which contains almost no complete buildings, and immediately grasp the scale.  It’s pretty rewarding to sit at different vantage points and imagine the ancient city.

Reconstruction of Upper Delphi

I was hoping that things would begin to cool in early September but it was still incredibly hot in Delphi.  Since there is very little shade, try to go first thing in the morning or in the afternoon (3-8pm) like we did.  Take breaks, wear a hat and drink lots of water.

3) Stay the Night in Arachova

Arachova – A more authentic and relaxing alternative to staying in Delphi

As you would imagine, the modern city of Delphi is a tourist trap.  The main street is lined with restaurants and cheap hotels each containing some iteration of Oracle, Apollo, Temple or Zeus in their title.  I guessed as much even before I left the US and made alternate arrangements…

Arachova is about 20min east of Delphi and is a lovely town.  What spares Arachova from the cheesy tourist malaise down the road is its status as a top winter destination for skiers who flock to Mt. Parnassos.  Arachova has great hotels and restaurants to serve the influx of mostly Athenians coming up to ski but is empty in the summer months.  Since the city draws Greek sports enthusiasts, you are spared the kitsch seen in Delphi.  Arachova was a beautiful, peaceful town without the crowds and a more authentic place to hang out .

View down the main street in Arachova

There are several nice hotel options; we stayed at Xenonas Iresioni‏.  It is on the edge of town but only a few minutes walk away from the center of things.  The staff was great and the room was comfortable with the biggest double bed we saw in all of Greece.  When I mentioned to the man at the front desk that I was unable to purchase a Delphi catalog because the museum shop had run out of the English version, he gave be an unused one that they had on hand.  Talk about helpful staff!

Sep 17

Athens at Night

The Acropolis at night as viewed from above Monastiraki Square

On the flight back from Greece, I was getting excited to post about my trip but I have been a lazy girl since I got back.  Normally I get jet-lag for a day at the most, but I have been out by 8pm almost all week!  I’m finally feeling back to normal and am now sorting through my 600 photos.  Greece was so much fun.  It was one of those 10 day vacations which is so relaxing and so filled with sights that it feels like you were gone a month! (Maybe that’s why it took so long to adjust when I returned…)

In the meantime, here is a Acropolis view taken our first night in Athens from a sixth floor bar on Monastiraki Square.  The view was well worth my 9 Euro Metaxa-sangria (which itself was good too)!

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