Happy New Year (with Kandinsky)
If Christmas was gentle and sensitive Giotto, New Years is energetic Vasily Kandinsky. Above is Composition VIII made in 1923 with all the exuberance, joy and motion of the jazz age.
All the best in 2012!
Dec 31
If Christmas was gentle and sensitive Giotto, New Years is energetic Vasily Kandinsky. Above is Composition VIII made in 1923 with all the exuberance, joy and motion of the jazz age.
All the best in 2012!
To celebrate Christmas, here is one of my favorite Madonna and Child paintings by Giotto, done between 1320-1330. Despite the fact that baby Jesus resembles a little man, there is a delicacy and sensitivity in how both figures are holding or reaching for the flower. The painting to me is one of the first Renaissance works and a lovely, peaceful image for Christmas.
Dec 22

Winter solstice sunrise illuminating the main passage at Newgrange (Photo: Alan Betson, Irish Times)
Earlier in my UNESCO World Heritage Site series, I discussed the Neolithic mound tomb Newgrange which is outside Dublin. Around the winter solstice, approximately Dec 18-23, the morning sun enters through an opening over the doorway and illuminates the main stone passageway and the central burial chamber. It’s interesting to think of the religious significance this event – cremated human remains being touched by the sun – must have held.

Diagram of winter solistice sunrise at Newgrange (Newgrange by G, Stout & M. Stout, 2008, Newgrange)
Over the last few days, a handful of lucky lottery winners have huddled inside the chamber to watch what is usually a magnificent spectacle. (It’s actually been a little overcast this week so the effect may have been reduced.)
Dec 19
As if the Gothic cathedrals of France were not beautiful enough already, several have been illuminated this year in dramatic and vivid colors. These shows will continue for the last few weeks of Dec 2011 if you are fortunate to be in France.
The Reims Cathedral celebrated its 800th anniversary this year. It’s light show elegantly chronicles this history illustrating the cathedral as if an illuminated manuscript, a geometric architectural plan, under construction and finally completed with painted facade statues. The cathedral is also illuminated as if one huge stained glass window and then spends several minutes flashing between a range of Monet-esque abstracted palettes. The Reims cathedral light show continues until Dec 31st. A fairly good video of the 25min show is available in two parts online:
The Amiens Cathedral is also illuminated through December in a similar fashion. There is no flashy show but you do have the chance to visualize the originally painted facade of the cathedral. Like Reims, the image projection and matching is incredible, although you can see some of the shadows in the close-up image below.
Dec 14
I’m trying to plan out next year’s travel and have become obsessed with the Black Sea. I blame this on indecisiveness. I was thinking about visiting Istanbul, curling along the western Turkish coast and then up through Cappadocia. Then I got thinking about Russia and a grand tour from regal St. Petersburg through the countryside to Moscow. I’ve also been enjoying Curious Cat on the Run‘s travels through Romania, so Eastern Europe seemed like a beautiful and decidedly untouristy destination. So there you have it. A dramatic mix of numerous cultures that can only be achieved, in any practical way, by visiting the Black Sea.
I realized pretty quickly that an organized cruise may be the only way to see it all in a reasonable amount of time. On my own, I would have to cobble together a trip through numerous ferry lines without very efficient routing, like Odessa to Yalta to Odessa to Batumi. (For help, see this Lonely Planet thread). With limited vacation time, I am always looking for the best way to maximize my travel days and back-tracking, not knowing ferry schedules ahead of time, and negotiating travel in three languages over 12 days doesn’t make much sense.
Sadly though, I am not a “cruise” person. Don’t get me wrong, I love the ocean, as long as I am on a passenger ferry. The idea of ginormous buffets, cheesy entertainment, being stuck with 2000 other people on a ship, 4 hour visits to ports and lame pre-packaged shore excursions do not appeal to me.
So now I am looking for “acceptable” companies, meaning smaller ships whose mission and style cater to the discerning nerd traveler, schedules with long port visits and it would be nice if they didn’t cost an arm and a leg. I’m weighing a few that I’ve found so far (and am always looking for experienced advice….). So either I pick one and go to the Black Sea next year, or I scrap it all together and go to Peru!