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Posts tagged ‘Greece’

Recycled Stone – Christianized Art in Athens

While this practice seems unthinkable today, across the Mediterranean, ancient Greek and Roman structures were salvaged for building materials in subsequent centuries.  Given the prevalence of the Catholic Church in the Middle Ages, pagan buildings were at best a curiosity.  The Parthenon in Rome is said to have only survived because it was converted into a church.

The Pentelic marble used to construct ancient Athens proved to be too alluring for Byzantine builders.  You can see blatant example of stone theft in the piece-meal construction of the 13th century Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church in Athens.  While the materials were stolen, the care with which pieces were selected and incorporated suggests some appreciation for classical art.

Panagia Gorgoepikoos, Athens

13th Century Panagia Gorgoepikoos (The Madonna who Quickly Hears) Church, Athens (Image adapted from the web)

The small Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church sit about 50 feet from the Mitropolit Cathedral in the Plaka region of Athens.  It would be easy to discount the little building, but don’t be fooled.  This Byzantine cross-in-square church has a quirky decorative narrative worth a long look.  When constructed in the 12th century, stone from classical Greek, Roman, Christian and early Byzantine buildings* were incorporated into the facade of the church along with newly carved elements.  Placement is a little haphazard with only a moderate attempt at symmetry or a coherent aesthetic.  What’s most impressive when examining the exterior is that all the decorated panels have essentially been preserved and are used in a way that recognizes that each is valuable, if not also beautiful.  Some panels though just needed a “Christianization”:

Panagia Gorgoepikoos - funeral panel

Roman funerary monument converted to acceptable Christian decor with the addition of a carved cross.  Facade of the Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church, Athens

Given the framing and poses of the two figures above, the stone was likely removed from a Roman funerary monument.  Interestingly, to make the panel suitable for a church, only a small cross sized to the available space was carved between the figures.  If the builders had wanted to desecrate the pagan images, they could easily have broken the figures faces which we don’t see here.  (The face on the right has been stained but is intact.)

Late Roman frizeze with cross

4th century BC Greek frieze with added 13th century cross on the exterior of Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church, Athens

One register above the main door, running the length of the front facade, is a long Classical frieze reported to be from the 4th century BC.  The carving is beautiful; I only wish I could figure out what legends it depicts.  (You can see more of the frieze here.)  I love that it was selected for such a prominent visual position.  Obviously a cross was inserted over some of the carvings but this was done very carefully and deliberately.  Neither Diana(?) with her stag or Mercury(?) were obliterated.  I think the sculptors recognized the value of this carving and purposefully sought it out for the church’s entrance.

Christianized Roman male nude alone the side facade of the Panagia Gorgoepikoos church in Athens

Christianized Classical male nude along the side facade of the Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church in Athens

I love this part of wall!  Here on the right we see two coffered ceiling tiles, I suppose inserted for ascetic reasons.  Then, a classical male nude is made church-appropriate by adding two large crosses beside him.  The crosses are recess carved, so the stone worker would have removed a thin layer of stone up to and around the male figure without disturbing his outline.  There didn’t appear to be a huge gash taken out of the man, as one might expect, to censor his nakedness so this imagery was presumably not an issue for the 12th century builders.  (On the other hand, time may have worn him down so the nudity wasn’t an issue by the time the panel was installed.)

Corner element of the facade of the Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church

Corner element of the facade of the Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church created from a Classical panel.

It’s hard to tell when exactly the crosses were added to each panel: in the 4th century upon the adoption of Christianity in the Roman Empire to deface existing art or in the 12th century while preparing for construction of Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church.  In the panel above, we see a partial classically modeled man and a Patriarchal Cross.  This cross with a second upper horizontal element is a unique Byzantine style that didn’t appear until the 10th century.  This suggests that panel selection and the incorporation of crosses did not occur until the construction of the Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church.

Exterior of Panagia Gorgoepikoos, Athens

Byzantine panels along the back facade of Panagia Gorgoepikoos, Athens

Just to show that the facade really is a hodge-podge of carved elements, there are beautiful Byzantine animals panels (birds, lions, griffins, deer) incorporated throughout the exterior.  The image above shows the back of the church with a Byzantine lion killing a leopard.  At the very top corner, along the roof line you can see another Roman panel of two figures into which a cross has been carved between them.  What I find most interesting in the large panel with carved circles.  Given the placement of the Greek text on this stone, this reminds me of Medieval grave markers in which a stone slab would have been used to cover a burial plot.

Overall, the Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church is a cool place to explore and a great find for lovers of art history.  While small in size, it illustrates the complex relationship between the Byzantines and the remnants of the Greek and Roman civilizations.  While I have seen Classical works defaced and damaged by later inhabitants, the builders of the Panagia Gorgoepikoos Church appear to have respected and sought out quality art, whether it was Christian or pagan in origin.

*Before the 12th century building that stands today, there was a 7th century church on this site.  It’s not clear how much of the exterior, or even interior decorative elements, were taken from that building.

Images of Nike (the Goddess, not the shoes)

In honor of the opening of the Olympics today, I’ve picked out three of my favorite images of Nike from the ancient Mediterranean.  I’ve always been amused by the iconography of the Goddess Nike – flying off in a flurry or racing away, arms and legs shown mid-stride.

Athens Agora Nike

Classical Greek Nike from the Ancient Agora in Athens

Ephesus Nike

The well-known Nike pediment from Ephesus – Roman 2nd century AD

bronze Nike from Athen Archaeological Museum

Very small partial bronze figure of Nike from the Athens Archaeological Museum.  Given her hairstyle this is likely Archaic Greek (ca. 580-500 BC)

All photos by Daydream Tourist.

#6: Mycenae Archaeological Site

Mycenae wall

Mycenae outer wall viewed from below (Photo: Daydream Tourist)

Don’t go to Mycenae if you want classical Greek architecture.  It does not have elegant ionic columns or passionate friezes of Gods battling.  It is not sophisticated artistically but still worth the trip.  You visit Mycenae because it is a fortress so impressive and old that is was selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  (And #6 in my series.)

Mycenae’s massive Cyclopean Walls (Photo: Daydream Tourist)

The area was first settled around 2000BC and developed and declined over the next 1000 years.  The most notable outer walls composed of 10 ton stones were constructed around 1350BC.  While this was done one thousand years after the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Mycenaeans had rocker terrain to contend with and built their fortress on the top of a small mountain. Many people believed that only the mythical giant Cyclops people could have built these ramparts and so you often hear them referred to as “Cyclopean Walls”.

old photo of Lion's Gate, Mycenae with Schliemann

Historic photo of the Lion’s Gate from the excavations of Mycenae by Schliemann in 1897 (Photo: Utah State University)

The one main decorative element of the site is the Lion’s Gate.  Two lionesses stand perched with their forelegs on a trophy over a heavy doorway.  Their heads have been lost but were likely turned aggressively toward travelers below who entered the citadel.  I prefer the less decorative but highly defense-able back entrance to the fort which forced invaders up a tight switch back road leaving their shields useless.

back gate to Mycenae

Back entrance to Mycenae (Photo: Daydream Tourist)

The site also contains two grave circles which were excavated in the 19th century by Heinrich Schliemann.  The treasure of gold he discovered there is now on display in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.  These items are believed to have belonged to Agamemnon and his family, the House of Atreus, which according to legend ended tragically and was linked to their involvement in the Trojan War.

Mycenae grave circle A (Photo: Daydream Tourist)

Gold mask from tomb V in Grave Circle A, often called the “Mask of Agamemnon” (Photo: Wikipedia)

Mycenae gold jewelry necklace

Some of my favorite gold jewelry from the Mycenae grave collection at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens (Photo: Daydream Tourist)

In addition to the grave circles, there are several large Tholos tombs.  These are 2-3 story chambers constructed of tightly fitted stones that slowly corbel into a dome.  By mid-day when we got to these rooms, they were a cool escape.  The two Tholos tombs at the smaller site of Tiryn nearby are down a rural farming road – definitely off the beaten trail!

Treasury of Atreus

Interior view of the entrance of the Tholos Tomb, or Treasury, of Atreus at Mycenea (Photo: Daydream Tourist)

If you do visit Mycenae, take a flashlight!  It’s still possible to go down a flight of stone steps to the fortress’ underground cistern which provided fresh water during long sieges.  It’s a creepy, spiderweb filled descent.  I wimped out once the stairs started getting wet and slippery but it’s pretty cool and you’ll feel like quite the adventurer!

Mycenae is an easy half-day or day trip from Nafplio.  Bring snacks and water because there is nothing available at the site.  Mycenae has a small archaeological museum with pottery and very dated signage about the site which doesn’t take long to see.  But then again, you are at Mycenae for those Cyclopean Walls.

Tacky Tourist Souvenirs

Sparta danger shirt

A reference from the movie "300" at a Greek tourist tee-shirt shop

When I was in Sicily, I met a fellow traveler who had an on-going contest with his girlfriend.  Whenever they traveled, they had to bring back the most ridiculous tourist junk as a gift for the other.  This is an absolutely brilliant idea!  Tacky tourist stuff is ubiquitous at popular attractions.  It’s an international phenomena; you can find this stuff everywhere!

Moose nugget earrings - $3.95

Growing up in Alaska, I would cringe at the variety of souvenirs made from “mouse nuggets”.  As large as a moose is, their excrement is actually just a pile of 1 inch pellets.  Someone though it would be funny to lacquer a couple and make jewelry out of it and the idea has taken off.  You can get drink swizzles, rings, and key chains too.  People must be buying these assorted “nugget” items because you can always find them in tourist shops.  But just so we’re clear, moose nuggets are poop!

Michelangelo's David light switch plate - $9.99

Hands down the worst inspiration for tacky tourist stuff is Michelangelo’s David!  If you’ve ever been to Florence, you know that you can’t go 2 blocks without seeing this guy on everything from desk clocks to aprons.  And most of it is a little tasteless.  Come on, it’s not like people have never seen a nude statue before!

So what have been your favorite examples of tacky tourist junk?

Photo of the Week – Greek Gas Station Cat

cat with blue and green eyes

Greek cat with beautiful eyes found while stranded at a Greek gas station (Photo: DaydreamTourist)

Living in the US, I take for granted that everyone accepts debit and credit cards as payment.  We pulled up to a gas station in the southwest of mainland Greece and filled up.  The gas station attendant handed us the bill and then waved off our credit card when we tried too pay.  Clearly flustered because we didn’t have enough Euros for it, I tried to ask “where is the ATM?”  The attendant pointed down the road and so I hopped out of the car while my husband when in search of cash.

The attendant and I shared some awkward smiles.  He cleared off a bench for me to sit and then returned to his business.  I tried to pull a few phrases from my Greek phrasebook to say that I liked Greece or that this area was beautiful but it didn’t get much of a response from him.  Customers came and went on motorcycles and in trucks.  They eyed me but left me alone otherwise.  I noticed a cat wandering the yard and followed it to get a closer look.  (Well, really as something to entertain myself.)  The cat had incredible eyes and was a great diversion while I awaited my gas station ransom.

Meanwhile, my husband was stuck in a traffic jam in Stoupa.  Two produce trucks had decided to park in the road while their drivers chatted.  He claims that Stoupa is a beautiful beach town but that it is was hard to focus on a town’s charm while trapped in the road knowing I was waiting at a random gas station.  It took him 45 minutes to get unstuck, withdraw cash and drive the 1km back to the gas station.  I guess I should be really happy I had a cat to entertain me!

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